jojo ,

-- genteel, almost rigorously refined, jojo hardly looks like the site of a revolution. yet in this glorified tearoom, chef jean-georges vongerichten stunned gourmands with his herbal essences, vegetable sauces, and gossamer desserts. regardless of how many other ventures vongerichten launches, jojo still maintains his stance and his quality. the two floors have shed their east side generic prissiness and blossomed as a kiss-in-the-shadows bordello duplex, which makes sticking your finger into the sauce oozing from the original-and still the best-valrhona cake lasciviously right. now let someone lick it off. the chef would like that.