la goulue ,

-- even in paris there are plenty of bistros that serve competent classics that fall short of memorable. la goulue has endured because it continues to fill a niche: competent food in a gracious and authentic french setting. the bistro fare goes beyond steak and moules frites but it doesn't tantalize. you can't beat the place for charm: outdoor wicker chairs, brown leather banquettes, and brass railings provide a respite for weary madison avenue shoppers, or those who enjoy watching the hustle-bustle tourist-shoppers barrel up the street while they sit back and suck down a glass of red wine or an ice cold vodka martini